The traditional manufacturing method “Goodyear” stands out for the enormous comfort, with advantages in terms of breathability, flexibility, insulation against cold and heat, being of great durability. It also has the advantage of being easy to repair, operation is guaranteed by us.
Before you can understand the nuances of Goodyear-welted shoes, it’s important to understand the components of men’s designer leather shoes:
- The Upper: the visible piece of leather or suede that makes up the upper half of the shoe
- The Insole: this is the inner sole that comes into contact with the foot
- The Outsole: the bottom sole that touches the ground
- Welts: in the best mens designer leather shoes, this piece of leather is sewn along the perimeter of the outsole
- The Last: during the construction process, the upper and insole are wrapped around a mold of a foot, called a last, which helps give the shoe its shape
In most shoes, the upper is folded between the insole and outsole, then all three layers are sewn together. However, in the Goodyear welt, an extra piece of leather is used for a more secure shoe construction.
Here’s how the Goodyear welt works:
The upper is still folded between the insole and the outsole, but a leather welt is also placed atop the edge of the bottom outsole. Additionally, on the bottom side of the insole, a vertical rib runs perpendicular along the outside of the sole. When the upper is placed between the soles, it’s placed against this rib and on top of the welt. Then, a stitch is sewn through the welt, through the upper, the ribbed insole, and back through the welt.
However, there’s an additional step that gives Goodyear welt shoes their distinctive look. On the outside of the shoe, a final stitch passes through the bottom sole and the welt. This final stitch is visible running the length of the shoe, which makes these mens designer leather shoes easy to spot in the wild.
How it Goes :
01 »Selection of the raw material
A strict control is made on all skins and other components in order to ensure that they are the most suitable for the type of footwear to be manufactured.
The skins have to be cut by a great connoisseur so that each piece is cut from the appropriate skin area so that it can then be shaped correctly to the shape of the foot.
The joining of all pieces of cut skin are sewn together to form the upper part of the shoe.
The upper part of the footwear already sewn is mounted in the shape with the foot configuration where it is attached to the vegetal leather insole, already deflowered and previously prepared to sew. Here is the “Pringing Sewing” in which it joins the insole to the top of the footwear and a leather strap called turns. The “box” under the insole of about 4mm height is filled with flexible cork that allows the foot to be correctly adapted to the footwear while absorbing the released sweat. A sole is then placed which is sewn to the vira with natural threads, followed by the thinning and preparation of the sole and heel as well as the drawing of the shoe of the form.
The edge of the shoe is painted with ecological paints and natural waxes are used to give the finishing to the tracks, while the upper part is finished with masses and polished with wool brushes to give the uniform and soft touch to the footwear. After a strict final inspection, the footwear is packed in the appropriate box and can be incorporated together with the accessories for better maintenance.